Milford Sound is one of those place you have to visit. I could sit here and write all day about how stunningly beautiful it is, how peaceful and quiet it is, but you just have to see it for yourself. I will try to do my best to describe it here.
After our one night at Te Anau, we made our way along the highway to Milford Sound. It's only 120km between Te Anau and Milford, but it's a windy road that takes you into the mountains, so it takes a bit of time to drive it. That, and it's a beautiful drive, so we were always stopping along the way to take pictures! The highway from Te Anau is the only way to get to Milford Sound, and once you reach Milford, you're at the end of the road. The only way out is to turn around and drive back to Te Anau. Knowing this, we left Te Anau fairly early so we could beat 'traffic' and get there with plenty of time to explore. We planned on staying 3 nights at Milford Sound so we could do some hiking and kayaking. I wouldn't even call Milford Sound a town. The only things there are: Milford Lodge (which is basically a lodge like backpackers), The Blue Duck (a cafe/pub) and the cruise terminal for the boats that take you on a cruise around the sound. That's it. No souvenir shops, no internet cafe, no grocery store, no gas station. Nothing. I think we were both a bit surprised at this, but I think it's what makes Milford so amazing. There is nothing there. Most people just come from Te Anau for a day trip, but we had wanted lots of time to explore, so I'm glad we stayed at the lodge. By the time we arrived, it was pouring rain outside, and with nothing else to do, we pulled out the crib boad and the Uno cards, bought a bottle of wine from the reception desk, and occupied ourselves for the rest of the day. We had a busy day planned for the next day, so it was kind of nice having an afternoon sitting inside, looking out at the rain and the mountains, drinking some wine, and playing some games.
The next morning we woke up bright and early because we had a kayaking adventure waiting for us!! We had booked a 5 hour kayak tour of the sound for the morning, and in the afternoon we had booked a 2 hour cruise of the sound. The kayak tour was amazing, but so tiring. It was good to do it in the morning because the water was quite calm to start and only got a bit rougher near the end of our tour. We were picked up from the lodge at 8am and then driven 5 minutes down the road to where the kayak company (Rosco's) was. We were provided with thermals, a fleece, raincoat, spray skirt and lifejacket. We were in double kayaks, so Chris was in the back steering and I was up front trying to direct us! It was just us, another couple, a young guy and the guide, so it was a great group. We kayaked around the sound where we saw Sterling Falls from quite a distance (9km away), The Lion (a mountain), Mitre Peak, Bowen Falls, and Deep Water Basin. Halfway through our kayak, the sun started shining, the cloud lifted and it was absolutely beautiful! We got to get up really close to Bowen Falls (160m high waterfall) and Chris and I got stuck on the rocks and bit and I started to panic, but of course Chris stayed nice and calm and got us turned around onto the right track. The kayak trip was a full 5 hours, and we were both exhausted by the time we finished. We were driven back to the lodge where I climbed right into bed because I was wiped! Chris made himself some lunch and then had a nap too. We woke up around 2:30 and chilled out for a bit before it was time to get ready for our cruise of the sound at 4:00pm. We were booked for a two hour cruise with Mitre Peaks, a smaller cruise company. We were really lucky because the sun was shining and there weren't too many clouds blocking the peaks. Also, there were only 18 people on the boat, so we had great views. The cruise was lovely, taking us all around the sound and into the Tasman Sea. We got up close to Sterling Falls, saw lots of fur seals, and had amazing views of the mountains! We took lots and lots of pictures!! Once we finished our cruise, we went back to the lodge where we made some pasta/grilled cheese and then turned in for the night. It was a pretty tiring day!
The next morning we woke up with grand intentions of doing a 3-4 hour hike before doing another 5 hour kayak/hiking tour. But, when the alarm went off at 6am, neither of us was in the mood to go tramping, so we decided to sleep in and spend the morning planning some more adventures for New Zealand and Australia. At 2pm, we were picked up by Rosco's so that we could kayak Deepwater Basin towards Sandfly Point and the end of the Milford Track where we'd do a 3km return walk to Lake Ada, and come back to our kayaks and paddle back to Deepwater Basin. Unlike yesterday, which was sunny and warm, our afternoon started off overcast with a light drizzle. But that was okay with us because we were hoping to see some great waterfalls. There was only 4 of us, plus the guide and his friend, so another small group, which was great. The water was so calm and peaceful, so it was a great day for kayaking. We paddled around Deepwater Basin and saw about 4 or 5 young male sea lions playing in the water. We were so close to them, it was amazing! We kayaked to the end of the Milford Track, which is where we started our 1.5 hour walk to Lake Ada. It was a really lovely walk through some wonderful rainforest. The rain was starting to come down quite heavy at this point, but we had good rain gear on, so weren't bothered by it. Our guide Luke was very knowledgeable about the native plants and showed us a bunch of neat ones along the way. We arrived at Lake Ada, but the sandflies were out in full force, so we didn't stay too long before heading back to the kayaks. By the time we reached the kayaks it was pouring down with rain, but still the water was nice and calm. Plus, with all the rain coming down, we were able to see some amazing waterfalls that only appear when it rains. We had a good paddle back to the launch area and then were driven back to the lodge. It was nice to get out of our wet clothes!!!
Milford Sound was definitely a highlight of our New Zealand adventure. It's such a beautiful, peaceful place. Unfortunately, we didn't get to do as much hiking as we would have liked, but I guess that will just give us a reason to return to Milford Sound one day!
P.S. It rains A LOT in Milford Sound. It rains 8m (yes, 8m) a year and 200 days a year. So, each day that it rains, that's an average of 40cm in a day. CRAZY!
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Kayaking Day 1 |
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Sterling Falls - 150m high |
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Bowen Falls - 160m |
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Kayaking Day 2 - Gotta love Chris' water-proof hat. Stylish and functional! |